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100% Optical

“Revenge of the eyewear snake”

OT met Lars Malmsten, co-founder of the Stockholm-based Vasuma Eyewear, as the brand celebrates 20 years of empowering glasses wearers

A bearded man wears chunky black sunglasses. The frames have wide arms and a visible core of a patterned gold metal
Vasuma

Vasuma Eyewear is a “happy brand,” Lars Malmsten, co-founder of the Stockholm-based business, told OT.

Malmsten took some time during the bustle of 100% Optical (1–3 March) to meet with OT at the stand of distributor, Traders & Makers, to talk about the stories behind Vasuma, which recognises its 20th anniversary this spring.

“We are based in the centre of Stockholm, in the middle of the Old Town. It has a nice, cultural vibe, with alleys like Barcelona or Venice,” he shared.

The brand operates from a four-storey townhouse, incorporating a warehouse and showroom. Embracing the heritage of this location is important to the team behind Vasuma, and evident in small touches, such as a catalogue that uses maps of the Old Town.

“Many buildings in Old Town have anchor irons – these have an architectural function, but you can also use the symbols to tell when the building was built,” Malmsten shared, adding that Vasuma has drawn inspiration from this small detail.

“This is a theme we have – anchoring new ideas. We have it on some of our frames,” he said.

Vasuma in three words

“Independent. Swedish. High-end.”

Empowering glasses wearers

Across Vasuma’s products, the observant might notice a common theme of the reptilian kind – as snakes are a prominent feature.

“When we were kids, we were bullied and called ‘four eyes’ for wearing glasses. In Sweden, the term is ‘glasögonorm,’ and is also the name for the spectacled cobra snake,” Malmsten shared.

The founders set out to turn the insult on its head, naming every frame after a type of snake, and taking inspiration from the pattern of a cobra’s scales.

“It is the revenge of the glasses snake,” Malmsten said.

“Our partners really like the connection,” he added, sharing that many people can relate to the experience of being teased for wearing spectacles.

“But everyone knows now that it’s the cool kids who wear bold eyewear,” he added.

Two decades on, and there is only one problem: “It is hard to find names now. I’m going down to subcategories, like water snakes.”

Everyone knows now that it’s the cool kids who wear bold eyewear

 

Growth and consistency

Vasuma has a solid stockist base in Scandinavia and is still exploring new markets and hoping to grow across Europe.

“It is an unpredictable world. We try to do our best, be optimistic and exceed expectations in what we do,” Malmsten said.

“We have designs on the table, and prototypes for autumn, that are really good. It’s a positive feeling,” he added.

The company is growing – now up to eight people from the four when Vasuma launched 20 years ago.

In the meantime, Vasuma is focused on providing a high quality of service, Malmsten shared.

“We know how to provide, not only design and awesome style, but the service which is very important to us,” he said.

The brand has been working with the same manufacturers in Italy and Japan since it launched.

Conscious creation

Sustainability is a central part of the make-up of Vasuma. Bioacetate has long been a feature of the eyewear collections.

The majority of Vasuma frames are made with Mazzucchelli’s M49 biodegradable material.

The company also recycles production waste into new acetate sheets, and in 2017 the brand partnered with Mazzucchelli to launch multi-coloured Tortoiseshell sheets made from recycled acetate.

“In Sweden, a lot of younger people are more conscious in their buying decisions and the buying power is stronger in that area. We have Greta Thunberg,” he pointed out.

This is not the case in all markets, he acknowledged: “Perhaps they trust that every company works in a sustainable way, but we know that is not the case.”

Vasuma encourages repairs rather than replacement, seeking to extend the life of eyewear and reduce waste, and offering a more sustainable option to practices.

I would say that we don’t put a frame on a person’s nose and say this is the trend they should have, it is more like enhancing the wearer’s own identity

 

Sustainability is not seen only in the materials and production, but the longevity of the designs.

“We have styles in our collections that we cannot kill because the demand is continuing. I would say that we don’t put a frame on a person’s nose and say this is the trend they should have, it is more like enhancing the wearer’s own identity,” Malmsten shared.

“It is good to make frames that last a long time, not only in terms of material and quality but also in terms of trends,” he said.

An added ingredient

Reflecting on two decades, Vasuma plans to continue embracing its heritage and encouraging spectacle wearers to express themselves with confidence.

The brand will host its 20th anniversary on 11 April in Stockholm at a rock club, featuring three bands who have been ambassadors for Vasuma over the years.

“We call ourselves failed musicians. We have music as a hobby, but we have worked closely with friends in great bands known around the world. Music has always been an ingredient in Vasuma,” Malmsten added.