The luxury of handmade

The designer behind these pieces, Morena Fiore, the founder of Kodes, aims to enable others to express their creativity and personality through their accessories. 

Diagnosed with alopecia universalis at 12 years old, Fiore realised that she had learnt to express herself through jewellery, and it was this that drove her to launch Kodes. 

In just over a year and a half, Kodes has started working with more than 30 optical practices, and Fiore wonders just how far the brand can reach. OT found out more. 

Marina Chichi

Morena Fiore

Behind the scenes of Kodes

What makes Kodes and its approach or products unique?

Every Kodes piece is handmade by me, although occasionally my family lends a hand to help so it can become a family activity. Something I hear from the optical practices I work with is that they can see we are bringing elements of jewellery design into our glasses chains. 

I’ve also introduced an aromatherapy collection of glasses chains. This was shortlisted for the Love Eyewear Awards in 2024 for innovation. 

What is the latest collection that you have released and why does it stand out from the crowd? 

The ‘Cameo Collection’ is inspired by classic Hollywood icons. I have chains inspired by and named after Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. These chains blend vintage charm with modern functionality, from tortoiseshell to gold accents. 

What are your main ambitions for the next 12 months?

I’m looking forward to following up on opportunities brought about from 100% Optical. I’m also planning to enter more awards this year and hope to continue the good streak of recognition that Kodes achieved last year. 

My main goal is to continue growing our stockists. Kodes is stocked in 33 optometry practices so far – just in the last year and a half. I have a huge black and white tube map with all the stations in Greater London and my goal is to get stocked in as many of those locations as possible. I highlight each location as we expand. Because I live in London, I feel that Kodes should be highly represented in my local city. 

Thanks to 100% Optical, my glasses chains are stocked in a practice in Jamaica. I am excited to see where else I could reach as a result of the 2025 show. Instead of having a tube map, perhaps I could have a world map to track where Kodes is stocked in practices. 

Morena Fiore

Morena tracks London-based stockists of Kodes on a large tube map

Are there any new projects in development?

Some of my glasses chains are dedicated to friends who championed my work. The ‘Mary’ skyrocketed as a bestseller over Christmas. The design features moss agate, and I think that the trend for semi-precious stones is going to continue to grow so I am looking at expanding the range. 

I've also noticed a lot of men around Europe wearing chains more and so I’d like to design some glasses chains with this in mind, as I think there will be more growth in this area. 

What approach does Kodes take to sustainability and social responsibility?

I try to keep the packaging as recyclable as possible. There is some bubble wrap in the envelope packages but that can be detached so the envelope can be recycled. I realised that I work with wood and plastic across my brand, so I try to offset that by planting trees all over the world. 

I also try to contribute to charity each year. I donate a percentage of money from the sales of one of my bracelet designs to Alopecia UK. I’m also working on a collaboration with a charity that provides menstrual health education and support for women in Africa. 

Kodes Accessories

Semi-precious stones are on-trend, Morena suggests

Could you explain the Kodes approach to luxury? 

Growing up in Southern Italy in the 90s, every teenager wanted to own luxury brand clothing, like a pair of Prada shoes or a specific scrunchie that would cost so much money. The expectation was teenagers had to wear those symbols to fit in. 

I was diagnosed with alopecia when I was 12, so it was already hard for me to fit in like you feel pressured to do as a teenager. My family also didn’t have the kind of money to spend on designer shoes. When I came to the UK 20 years ago, I spent my first paycheque on a second-hand pair of Prada shoes because I still had the mentality that the goal is to wear designer brands. 

Once I started making jewellery, I met other makers and started to really appreciate the value of a product that is handmade. I started to see luxury as the time and care that has been put into the item by the person creating it. Affordable luxury is a value for my brand, because the items are created with love and care, each handmade by me. 

What inspires your work?

My main inspiration is art deco. The challenge for me is to try and bring some of those design elements into the modern day – pairing art deco styles with brass, for example. I’m trying to bring more of that inspiration into the glasses chains. I think a retro collection would suit those practices who specialise in vintage-inspired pieces. 

I also draw inspiration from my homeland. I come from Puglia in Italy, where marble is everywhere, the colour of the stone used for buildings is unique, and everywhere you look are fields of olive trees. 

Kodes Accessories

The 'Fiona' glasses chain

What are some of the challenges in this sector?

The General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR) [a legislation placing requirements on businesses selling products to the EU or Northern Ireland] is the bane of my life. One of my dreams is to be stocked in my hometown in Italy. I am actually stocked in the neighbouring town, so I’m getting close, but I am going to have to navigate the GPSR requirements.